Product Spotlight: Rockford Fosgate T3S1-19 and T3S2-19 Superwoofers

When most people think of Rockford Fosgate, they remember that this brand has been delivering car audio products that enthusiasts have craved for over 50 years. Rockford Fosgate’s experience has made them a leader in the development of high-performance amplifiers, speakers and, of course, car audio subwoofers. Rockford has a truly incomparable solution for those who are truly fanatical about their bass. We’re talking about their flagship 19-inch Power Series T3S1-19 and T3S2-19 drivers. Let’s check them out.

Rockford Fosgate T3S1-19 and T3S2-19 Superwoofers

There are three series of subwoofers in the flagship Power Series. The T1 drivers are available in 10-, 12-, and 15-inch sizes. The T2 drivers start getting crazier with 13- and 16-inch diameters. At the top, we have the T3 19-inch drivers. To put that size into perspective, a typical 18-inch high-power subwoofer has an effective cone area of about 1,140 square centimeters. The T3 19-inch subwoofers have cones with a massive 1,472 square centimeter area. That’s an increase of 29%, which translates directly into an increase in efficiency and output.

The T3 19-inch superwoofers are available in two models. The T3S1-19 has a single 1-ohm voice coil, while the T3S2-19 has a single 2-ohm coil. Speaking of voice coils, the aluminum voice coil former on these drivers has a diameter of 5 inches and includes a single edge-wound layer. Winding a flat wire around a cylinder on its edge isn’t easy to manufacture, but the single layer means no insulated air pockets of heat, as found on multi-layered coils. This means more thermal capacity, translating into more power handling and less thermal compression for improved overall efficiency.

The voice coil former is vented between the upper spider and the cone to release air pressure and heat at high excursion levels. Power ratings for the T3 19-inch drivers are 3,000 watts continuous with 6,000 watts as the peak. For daily duties, a single T2500-1bdCP is a great choice. Two T2500-1bdCP in PowerSync (strapped) mode will give you more than enough jam if you want to see who has the loudest system.

Keeping the massive 19-inch woofer cone under control is no easy feat, especially with linear excursion capabilities in the 2.7-inch range. As such, the chassis of the T3 woofers is very tall. The mounting depth is 15.62 inches. The chassis is a two-piece die-cast aluminum design with heat sink fins and extensive venting. The motor structure uses a dual-gap, multipole neodymium push/pull design with the voice coil having a dual winding design. A large neodymium magnet slug sits inside the voice coil and provides the electromotive force needed to move the cone. This geometry reduces inductance to numbers well below what some 10-inch woofers with 2-inch voice coils have. As such, the 19-inch woofers produce reasonable midbass – something many woofers today can’t claim at these power levels. As has been proven repeatedly, Rockford Fosgate doesn’t just do things big; it designs for sound quality and includes technologies that most other companies overlook to improve performance. Think of it like a Top Fuel Dragster combined with a Formula 1 car.

T3 Superwoofer Cone Assembly

The cones of the T3 superwoofers feature top and bottom layers of glass fiber that are laminated over a low-mass, high-strength aramid honeycomb core. This is the same construction used in aerospace applications. An aluminum dust cap ensures stability at high excursion levels.

The surround is made from injection-molded foam and uses Rockford Fosgate’s Vertical Attach Surround Technique (VAST) geometry to maximize the driver’s surface area. An aluminum clamping ring keeps the outer edge of the surround affixed to the chassis.

The Power Series T3 subwoofers use a pair of progressive Nomex spiders that are spaced several inches apart. This geometry is crucial to maintaining linear excursion at high power levels. Any rocking and the voice coil could make contact with the top plate. The tinsel leads from the voice coil are sewn to the upper spider to prevent noise and damage. Electrical connections to your amplifier(s) are made via a pair of massive spring-loaded terminals that can accept 4 AWG wiring. Just for some math fun, 6,000 watts into a 1-ohm load requires 77.4 amps of current continuously with peaks of over 92 amps. Yep, 4 AWG sounds about right.

Subwoofer Enclosure Simulations

By now, you should know that the Box Advisor tool on the Rockford Fosgate website is a valuable resource. We looked up the suggested enclosure for a T3S1-19 and were presented with a vented design with an internal volume of 8.0 cubic feet and a 69-square-inch vent that tunes the system to a ground-shaking 24 hertz. This would make a stunning subwoofer solution for a large home theater. In a van or SUV, it would be capable of scaring most audio enthusiasts. If you want maximum output for competitions, 6 cubic feet tuned to around 40 hertz will produce a nice peak where most vehicles are efficient. Based on the simulations, neither design has any power handling issues that are affected by excursion limitations above 20 Hz.

Rockford Fosgate doesn’t recommend a sealed enclosure for the T3S1-19 or T3S2-19, but it will work if you have 3.5 cubic feet of airspace. You’re probably better off with a 13-inch T2 in a vented enclosure. Unless, well, shock factor!

Amazing Bass from the Rockford Fosgate T3S1-19 Superwoofers

If you have to have the biggest, baddest subwoofer on the streets, drop by a local authorized Rockford Fosgate retailer and ask about the mighty T3S1-19 and T3S2-19 superwoofers. You’ll need a well-constructed enclosure and lots of power to get the most out of one of these beasts, but the performance will be well worth the investment. For more information on the Power T3 superwoofers or any of the amazing car audio products from Rockford Fosgate, visit their website and follow them on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Product Spotlight: Rockford Fosgate P3D2-10 and P3D4-10 Subwoofers

I can’t think of many name-brand car audio manufacturers offering more subwoofers than Rockford Fosgate. They have everything from affordable entry-level drivers with the Prime R2 series to competition-ready monsters in the Power series T3 Superwoofer. Near the middle of the pack are the impressive Punch P3 drivers that serve as the flagship of that series. Let’s take a close look at the P3D2-10 and P3D4-10 10-inch subwoofers.

Rockford Fosgate P3D2-10 and P3D4-10 Subwoofers

The P3-level 10-inch subwoofers in the Punch line are available in two voice coil configurations. The P3D2-10 has dual 2-ohm voice coils, which your installer can wire to be a 1- or 4-ohm load. The P3D4-10 has dual 4-ohm voice coils to be a 2- or 8-ohm driver. Many will wonder which is better. There is no better. The options exist to allow your installer to pick the right combination of voice coil impedance and driver quantity to optimize the power production capabilities of whatever amp you choose. Other than some minor variances because of the different mass of the voice coils, the two driver options are otherwise identical.

Punch P3 Subwoofer Moving Parts

Let’s start by looking at the moving parts in the Rockford Fosgate P3D2-10 and P3D4-10 subwoofers. The drivers feature an anodized aluminum cone and dust cap. The cones are low in mass and rigid, and the aluminum helps extract heat from the voice coils wrapped around the anodized 2.5-inch aluminum voice coil former. A spun-laced Nomex reinforcement collar supports the joint between the former and the cone. Many overheated woofers fail at this joint, so this is a worthwhile upgrade in terms of longevity.

The tinsel leads from the voice coils are sewn to the oversized spider to ensure silent operation. At the top of the cone is a custom-tooled Santoprene rubber surround. The surround is bonded to the cone and then attached to the basket using Rockford Fosgate’s Vertical Attach Surround Technique, which optimizes the cone surface area. As a result, the P3 10-inch subwoofers have an effective radiating area (SD) of 360 square centimeters. Drivers rated similarly from competing brands are down at 345 or 327 square centimeters. When efficiency matters, so does cone area.

Basket and Magnet Assembly

The Punch P3 woofers have a unique deep-draw StampCast basket design. This basket design is stamped but looks like a cast basket, with to its geometry and crinkle-paint finish. The deep recesses on the sides of the four spokes add significant strength and rigidity to the design. Venting under the spider mounting plateau has also been included in the basket to improve power handling and make the driver more linear at high excursion levels.

The top edge of the basket features the FlexFit mounting slot design that allows for perfect alignment of the pad-printed artwork on the cone. The upper surface of the mounting lip is rubberized for a tidy appearance. A foam gasket is installed on the mounting surface to ensure an airtight seal to the enclosure. Finally, a machined aluminum trim ring gives the driver a tidy appearance and serves as the mount for the optional P2P3G-10 stamped mesh grille.

At the base of the basket is a massive magnet protected by a custom-tooled rubber boot. The pole piece includes a sizeable radiused vent in the center to relieve pressure under the dust cap and allow the inside of the voice coil to cool. Eight holes are drilled into the bottom plate to provide additional cooling under the voice coil.

Electrical connections are made by heavy-duty binding posts mounted at right angles to the basket. The wires enter the terminals from the bottom, keeping them out of the way when your installer is trying to load the driver into its enclosure.

Rockford Fosgate Punch P3D2-10 and P3D4-10 Specifications and Applications

In terms of specifications, Rockford Fosgate rates the P3 10-inch subwoofers as being capable of handling 500 watts continuously with peaks of 1,000 watts.

The drivers have a low-Q design, with the Qts being at 0.49 for the dual-two driver and 0.56 for the dual 4-ohm. The resonant frequency (Fs) is also low at 26.6 and 28 hertz, respectively. Finally, the equivalent compliance is relatively soft at 27 liters for either model. The Xmax specification is 15.2 millimeters for the D2 and 15.9 for the D4.

The Box Advisor tool on the Rockford Fosgate website suggests an acoustic suspension (sealed) enclosure volume of 0.59 cubic feet (net). This application results in a Qtc of 0.815 for the P3D2-10 driver with an F3 frequency that’s nice and low at 39.13 hertz. The suggested bass reflex (ported) enclosure has a net volume of 1.4 cubic feet with a vent tuned to 40 hertz. This enclosure, shown in red below, has an F3 frequency of 30 hertz and a nice bump centered around 45 Hz to give you a serious kick in the back. If you prefer a little rumble instead of boom, have your installer tune the enclosure to 32 hertz, and you’ll pick up about 6 dB of output at 25 hertz. None of the above enclosures have any power handling issues through the mid-band, though the vented enclosures would appreciate an infrasonic filter, as usual.

Upgrade Your Car Stereo with Rockford Fosgate Punch Subwoofers

As two reviews on the Rockford Fosgate website note, these drivers are indeed little monsters. They have an impressive feature set that ensures reliability and linear performance. The electro-mechanical characteristics are optimized for impressive output, even from a small sealed enclosure. Finally, your installer can recommend any combination of Rockford Fosgate P3D2-10 or P3D4-10 subwoofers to optimize the output capabilities of almost any amplifier on the market.

If it’s time to add high-quality bass to your vehicle, drop by a local authorized Rockford Fosgate retailer and ask about the Punch P3 subwoofers. You can find a retailer using the locator tool on their website. Be sure to follow Rockford Fosgate on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube to learn about their new products and the amazing events they attend each year.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Why Would I Want A Remote Starter?

If you have never owned a remote starter, you might be asking yourself why they are so popular. The mobile electronics industry switches into “starter season” each fall and, when the weather cooperates, doesn’t stop until spring time. But what is it about having a remote starter that is so great? We’ll explain.

Just What Is a Remote Starter?

A remote starter system includes several components: a primary system “brain” and interface module, an antenna and at least one remote control. The installer will wire the brain into the ignition system of your vehicle, and then the brain replicates the electrical connections or data commands that are used to start your vehicle. When you press the Start button on the included remote control, the brain starts the remote start process. Pressing the Start button again or letting the preset timer run out will stop the car.

What Are the Benefits of a Remote Starter?

The biggest advantage of having a remote starter is that it will give your vehicle and its systems a head start in getting up to operating temperature. While most people think of a remote starter as something that is used exclusively in the middle of winter, many systems in the vehicle are involved.

The engine has two fluid systems that need a chance to warm up before the vehicle is driven: the cooling and lubrication systems. As your engine runs, both the coolant and the oil will warm up. Engines operate their best at their operating temperature. At these temperatures, the oil flows easily through the engine and properly lubricates everything from the crankshaft and camshaft bearings to the cylinder walls and upper valvetrain. Oil gets thick when it’s cold, so warming it up before you put a heavy load on it (such as accelerating away from being parked or at a stoplight) makes it flow more easily.

The engine’s cooling system has to warm up for the heater core under the dash of your car to warm up. Only once the heater core is warm can the interior of the vehicle start to warm up in the winter.

In the summer, your engine needs to be running for the air conditioning compressor to work and allow it to extract heat from the interior of your vehicle. Even in the summer, your engine oil needs a few minutes to warm up so it can protect your engine properly.

How Long Should My Remote Starter Run?

You want the remote starter system to give your car a head start at warming up. Running the engine for 30 minutes would waste a lot of fuel. Most starters have a default run-time of 10 to 12 minutes. If you start the car 5 to 10 minutes before you want to leave, it will have had a good chance to warm up and start making the interior comfortable.

What Else Can My Remote Starter Do?

In many vehicles, especially those with computers that control the accessory circuits, you have many options that can enhance the functionality of your remote starter. The most common option is door lock control. Most starters have multiple buttons on the remote control that will allow you to unlock the doors as you approach the vehicle, then lock them again as you walk away after arriving at your destination.

Some starter systems have the option of adding a security system. This upgrade adds a siren, shock sensor and additional wiring to monitor the doors. Other options include controls for the power trunk/tailgate, rear window defroster, heated seat and even power window. Your retailer can help guide you through the specific options for your vehicle.

Is My Car Safe When Remote Started?

A lot of retailers are asked whether someone could just walk up the car once it is remote started, open the door, get in and drive away. The answer is no. Stealing your car while it is remote started is no easier than when it’s parked and turned off.

First, most starters keep the doors locked after starting the car. It would be no easier to get in than when the vehicle isn’t running. For vehicles with automatic transmissions, you almost always have to put your foot on the brake pedal to shift out of park. Most remote starters have a shutdown wire connected to the brake pedal – unless you have put the key in the ignition, the vehicle will shut down as soon as you put your foot on the brake. You have no fear of anyone taking your vehicle just because you are using a remote starter system.

Does the Brand of Remote Starter Matter?

That’s a tough one. Certain brands have excellent reputations for reliability. In most cases, the brand of starters that a store carries is typically the one that they have the most experience with and confidence in installing. No installer wants to troubleshoot faulty equipment, so good retailers will always work with brands they trust.

Being familiar with the brand also means that the installers know the color and function of all the wires coming out of the brain so they spend little or no time is spent on reading the owner’s manual. Installers will also have all the tools required to program the system to your vehicle. Most remote starters in late-model vehicles have to communicate with CAN data network, so proper programming and configuration are essential.

What Else Do I Need to Know about a Remote Starter?

You have a lot of options when it comes to purchasing a remote starter. Other than the accessory circuits we mentioned earlier, the options involve different ways of controlling the starter system.

Your first option will involve deciding how much range you need. The range is the distance (in feet or miles) that you will be away from the vehicle and still want it to start when you press the button on the remote control.
The second option is how you want to communicate with the remote starter. Are you happy to push the Start button and let the vehicle do its thing? This type of communication is called one-way. The other option is a two-way remote that will blink, beep or vibrate once the system has received a command back from the vehicle to confirm it has started successfully.
You can also incorporate cellular-based smartphone interfaces with your starter. With a smartphone interface, as long as your phone and the vehicle can get a cellular data connection, you can be anywhere on the planet and start your car.

Choose Your Retailer Wisely

You also need to ask the retailer how the system will be installed. Installers around the country, and around the world, use many different concepts and methods. Some focus on speed so they can offer low prices. Other installers focus on replication of OEM methods for connectivity and wire management. What matters is that the system is reliable. Wire connections should be secure both mechanically and electrically. The installer should mount components so they do not cause buzzes or rattles. The shop should pay special attention to the safe disassembly and reassembly of your vehicle’s trim panels.

We can’t describe every situation, so ask to see their work and judge for yourself.

Owning a remote starter is a great way to save a few minutes each day. Giving your car even 90 seconds to warm up and get the fluids flowing before you start to drive can have a dramatically positive effect on the longevity of your vehicle and on your comfort.

Remote starter systems are not just for cold climates, so visit your local mobile electronic specialist retailer and see what they have to offer.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

What Is Signal-To-Noise Ratio, And Why Does It Matter?

Most people understand the importance of amplifier power specifications. In most cases, more power is a good thing, that is, until you reach the thermal or suspension limits of the speakers you are using. One specification that is also very important in a mobile electronics amplifier, processor or source unit is Signal-to-Noise Ratio. In this article, we are going to explain what S/N Ratio numbers are and why they are important.

All the Noise, all the Time!

It just so happens that when you pass a signal through any device – like a piece of wire, resistor, capacitor, inductor, transistor or anything else you can think of – a tiny little bit of noise is added to the signal. There are many different kinds of noise. The random motion of electrons bouncing around as they pass through a device causes thermal noise. Higher temperatures result in more noise. Another common noise is Shot Noise. The difference in arrival times of electrons as they cross a barrier or gap between two materials causes Shot Noise. Devices like transistors and diodes, which have different layers of materials inside, are common sources of Shot Noise. There are many more types of noise.

As you can imagine, the amount of noise generated by any one of these devices is minuscule. When you add up a little bit of noise from a bunch of components, then you amplify the resulting signal, the amount of noise in the output of a circuit grows dramatically.

Noise happens in source units, signal processors and amplifiers. Once you add noise to the signal chain, it’s essentially impossible to remove it.

The Sound of Noise

An easy way to hear what noise sounds like is to connect a set of headphones to your laptop computer and turn the volume up fairly high. You’ll hear a hiss through the headphones. That’s noise. (Note: Please be careful, we want you as an audio enthusiast for life. Take those headphones off before your computer plays a sound and you risk damaging your hearing.)

How We Measure Noise

There are a few ways to quantify the noise an electronic component creates. One method is to simply state the noise on the output of the device in absolute terms. The measurement could be in volts or watts, and quantifies the amplitude of the noise signal. You won’t see this used to describe audio components, however.

The most common method of quantifying the noise that a product adds to the signal is to compare the noise level to that of the audio signal coming out of the device. Because the difference in these levels can be quite large, we state the ratio of the signal level to the noise level using the decibel (dB) scale. The decibel scale is logarithmic. As such, a difference of 6 dB represents a doubling of the amplitude ratio, 20 dB is ten times the amplitude, 40 dB is 100 times, 60 dB is 1000 times and 80 dB is 10,000 times and so on.

Let us look at a moderate quality amplifier – nothing awesome, nothing disastrous. We see that this fictional amplifier has a S/N Ratio of -82.3 dB when referenced to 1 watt of power output into a 4-ohm load. What does that mean? Well, first, we know that to produce 1 watt of power into a 4-ohm speaker, we need 2 volts RMS of signal coming out of the amp. Our noise level is 82.3 dB quieter than 2 volts. Using an online calculator, that means that the noise produced by this amp is 0.00006918309709189363 times smaller than 2 volts, so it’s about 0.000138 volts. A little more math and that works out to 4.785 nanowatts.

Nope. That isn’t very much noise. And in most cases, you probably can’t hear it.

What if we work hard and find a below-average amplifier? Something with a S/N spec down around 70 dB? If we apply that math to our 2 volts of rated output, we get a noise level of 99.99 nanowatts. Yep, that’s a LOT more watts as compared to the previous example.

Clarifying the Mysterious Signal-To-Noise Ratio

If you look at an amp spec from more than about 10 years ago, or you see a number that is abnormally high, they may be rating the noise level using the maximum output capability of the amplifier as the comparing factor. If we measure an amplifier’s noise output level at 1 watt to be 85 dB, then you increase the amplifier’s output to 10 watts, assuming it doesn’t make any additional noise, the S/N ratio will be -95 dB. If the amp can produce 100 watts with no more noise, the ratio is now -105 dB. There are hundreds of amps that can produce 1000 watts – so that noise ratio measurement would now be -115 dB. When it comes to printing numbers on a gift box, in a brochure or publishing them on a website, being able to say that the S/N Ratio is -115 dB sure looks more appealing than -85 dB.

The CEA-2006 specification established a standard set of guidelines for S/N Ratio noise measurement. The specification dictates that we measure the S/N Ratio compared to 1 watt of output into a 4-ohm load. A new specification is in the works that will help quantify the adjustment of the sensitivity setting on the amplifier during the measurement process. As it sits, the lower the setting of the amp, the better the S/N ratio measurement will be. Want to confirm this? Next time you are installing an amp, turn the system on with no signal connected to the amp and listen to the speakers. Then turn the amp gain up all the way. You will hear the noise level increase. Please turn the gain back down and shut the system off before proceeding.

Why is the Lack of Noise Important?

How can we quantify the desire not to add noise to our signal? Here is a simple analogy. If you purchased a TV in recent years, you may have heard the expression ‘blacker blacks.’ ‘Blacker blacks’ refers to how dark the screen gets when there is no signal. Blacker is better. When you think about your audio system, a ‘more negative’ S/N ratio means that the noise is quieter than the audio signal. We don’t want to listen to noise. -90 dB is better than -80 dB. Go it? Clear?

There are so many criteria to balance when choosing any car audio product. Power levels, efficiencies, distortion characteristics, features and functions all play an important role. Understanding the meaning of the S/N ratio measurement is very important. We don’t want ANY distortion or noise added to our music, but the laws of physics deny us that luxury. Do your best to choose products that, through careful design and choice of internal components, minimize these negative effects. Your local mobile electronics specialist can help steer you towards some amazing equipment. Drop in and check out what’s new.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Vehicle Lighting Upgrades Offer Many Options

When it comes to driving in the dark, the quality and quantity of lighting you have is paramount to your safety, and the safety of those around you. In recent years, automakers have begun to put significant effort into their lighting systems. From the days of incandescent lighting to upgrades with halogen gases, high-intensity discharge (HID), light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and – most recently – lasers, lighting has come a long way. The aftermarket is evolving quickly as well, so let’s look at some of the options that can make your nighttime drive safer.

Light Source Options

Factory headlight replacement options are the most popular upgrades available. There are three basic options: incandescent, LED and HID. Incandescent bulbs use a high-temperature filament that glows white-hot when current passes through it. Advances in materials and the selection of gases that are used in the construction of the light bulb have improved efficiency and longevity, as well as increased light output. A few years ago, tinted incandescent bulbs were popular – they gave the white/blue appearance of high-dollar HID kits. However, any time you put something between the light source and what you are trying to illuminate, you decrease the light output. Cool? Yes. Bright? Not so much.

The latest rage is LED lights. Vehicles like the Toyota Corolla, Acura MDX and new Honda Civic are available with LED headlights. These light sources are very bright. They produce full output very quickly when turned on. In the aftermarket, LED replacement headlight bulbs are becoming more and more popular. The quality of LEDs available is increasing in tandem with demand. However, the light output (measured in lumens) is still a little behind that of HID bulbs. LED lights often cost more, because not as many are being produced – a supply-and-demand issue. LED lights also require external cooling. Aluminum heat sinks, braided metal tabs and fans are common solutions for helping to dissipate the heat generated by LEDs. These can pose challenges regarding installation and available space.

The 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII is credited as being the first production vehicle with HID headlights. This system works by increasing the 12V vehicle electrical system voltage up to around 100 volts. This voltage goes to a pair of electrodes in a gas-filled chamber. A steady spark between the two electrodes is what produces the light. However, it takes around 25,000 volts to get the lights to start working. That’s why you get a small, bright flash when you first turn on an HID system. HID lights are among the brightest on the market. The color of the light they produce is closer to that of sunlight, with more blue content than with incandescent bulbs.

Light Color

We should talk about light color, or more accurately, light temperature is rated on the Kelvin scale. Lower numbers, around 3,500–4,500 K have significant yellow and orange content, and are similar to incandescent bulbs. Moving up the scale, 4,500–6,000 K is bluer and closer to sunlight. That said, as the blue content increases, so can the propensity for eye fatigue – blue light can be tiring to look at. You don’t want to go too high for daily use. Bulbs rated at 6,000–10,000 K are for appearance purposes only. The light becomes more purple toward the high-end of the spectrum. These are fine for a show car, but not practical or safe for daily use.

Light Intensity

Many people believe there is a direct correlation between color temperature and light output. That depends, of course, on the manufacturer of the bulb. The thinking is that lower temperatures produce more light output. Ultimately, the amount of light that is produced will determine how much and how far you can see.

Light output is measured in lumens. More lumens means more brightness, which, for a given beam pattern, means that the road will be illuminated better.

Beam Pattern

When upgrading your headlights, it is critically important that you are conscious of the resulting beam pattern. The light that is emitted from the front your vehicle is in a specific pattern – not round like a flashlight. The beam has a flat line through it, ever so slightly below horizontal. This allows the light to illuminate the road without blinding oncoming drivers. The light should also be brighter near the edge of this cutoff, putting more light down the road rather than in front of the vehicle. Too much light in the foreground will cause your pupils to close slightly, reducing how far down the road you can see.

Likewise – and this is a great night driving tip – the brightness of the vehicle interior can have the same effect. Keep the dash and radio illumination as dim as possible. That can help you see further down the road.

If the new light bulbs you install change the beam pattern, remove them. They are not compatible with your headlights, and they will blind oncoming drivers. This is extremely dangerous and can cause accidents.

Headlight Styles

There are two types of factory headlight assemblies in use today: reflector style and projector style.

The projectors are fairly easy to recognize – they have smallish, 2–3” round lenses. Reflectors have a large, molded, mirror-finish bowl behind the light. While one is not necessarily better than the other, you do need to know which you have when you go shopping for upgrades. Aftermarket HID kits don’t typically work properly in reflector-style headlight assemblies. The beam pattern becomes uncontrolled, pointing light into the eyes of oncoming drivers. In many cases, depending on the specific design of the kit you choose, you can use an LED upgrade in those applications.

In projector-style systems, the shape of the internal reflector is designed to work with either incandescent or HID style bulbs. The position and shape of the light source differs between these two bulb types. You can often get away with putting HID bulb kits in a projector designed for Incandescent bulbs without any detrimental effects, but they may not be quite as bright or focused as an HID bulb in a projector designed specifically for that application.

Retrofits

If you are looking for the ultimate lighting upgrade, you may want to contact your local mobile electronics specialist about a retrofit. A retrofit involves removing the headlights from the vehicle, taking them apart, and installing new projectors with OEM-quality bulbs and ballasts. Most of these solutions use what is known as a bi-xenon projector. These projector assemblies have motorized shutters that move to produce a “high beam” light pattern. The output of these systems is among the best there is – perfect beam pattern, excellent cutoff and great light output. Some headlights are easier to work on than others, so contact a local specialist for details about your lights.

You can also make some cosmetic changes while the lights are apart. The installation of LED halo rings, and painting some of the interior components can have a dramatic effect on the look of the vehicle.

Wiring

When you want to change headlights, wiring is often involved. Many new vehicles have systems in place to detect when a bulb is burnt out. They can also modulate the voltage to high-beam lighting circuits to operate them as daytime running lights.

When it comes to wiring, nobody is better than your local car audio specialist retailer. Work with them to ensure that your new light wiring can provide enough current and operates the way it should. Relays, capacitors and load resistors may be required to achieve the results you want. Don’t ever skimp on wiring – it affects the reliability of the lights you install, and your safety is at risk.

A Word of Caution About Vehicle Lighting Upgrades

We want to remind you that your headlights are a tool. They are not toys, and their performance and reliability are of the utmost importance to your safety and the safety of those you share the road with. Lighting upgrades are a great way to improve your safety at night. Drop by your local mobile electronics specialist and discuss your options.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

« Previous Page
1
…
7
8
9
10
11
…
14
Next Page »

Sunday	Closed
Monday	8:30 AM - 5:00 PM
Tuesday	8:30 AM - 5:00 PM
Wednesday	8:30 AM - 5:00 PM
Thursday	8:30 AM - 5:00 PM
Friday	8:30 AM - 5:00 PM
Saturday	Closed

Rockford Fosgate T3S1-19 and T3S2-19 Superwoofers

T3 Superwoofer Cone Assembly

Subwoofer Enclosure Simulations

Amazing Bass from the Rockford Fosgate T3S1-19 Superwoofers

Rockford Fosgate P3D2-10 and P3D4-10 Subwoofers

Punch P3 Subwoofer Moving Parts

Basket and Magnet Assembly

Rockford Fosgate Punch P3D2-10 and P3D4-10 Specifications and Applications

Upgrade Your Car Stereo with Rockford Fosgate Punch Subwoofers

Just What Is a Remote Starter?

What Are the Benefits of a Remote Starter?

How Long Should My Remote Starter Run?

What Else Can My Remote Starter Do?

Is My Car Safe When Remote Started?

Does the Brand of Remote Starter Matter?

What Else Do I Need to Know about a Remote Starter?

Choose Your Retailer Wisely

All the Noise, all the Time!

The Sound of Noise

How We Measure Noise

Clarifying the Mysterious Signal-To-Noise Ratio

Why is the Lack of Noise Important?

Light Source Options

Light Color

Light Intensity

Beam Pattern

Headlight Styles

Retrofits

Wiring

A Word of Caution About Vehicle Lighting Upgrades

Testimonials

Nice staff and honor their work

VERY HONEST and PROFESSIONAL company

Absolutely the best service

Great Service

Subscribe to Our Website

Location

Address

Connect With Us

Services

Store Hours